In Greece, wine has always been associated with happiness and wellbeing, especially around the holidays. Wine also has a rich history that reflects the use of some incredibly unique grapes that yield a variety of tantalizing flavors, there are any number of truly memorable wines from which to choose and make the holiday season bright!
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Dionysus, God of Wine
The earliest evidence of Greek wine dates back as far as 6,500 years ago, when wine was being produced both at home and out in the community. Wine is mentioned throughout Greek history, as well as mythology, so much so that the Greek god of wine, viticulture and ecstasy is Dionysus.
Though Dionysus has many myths attributed to him (as well as other godly qualities), there is one myth that speaks directly to how he became known as the god of wine.
As the myth goes, when the god Dionysus was a baby, he saw a grapevine growing next to his cradle. The little god was so excited by the fruit, he stretched out his hand to grab some grapes, put them in his mouth, and got drunk!
Dionysus has inspired many, and is known by many names, including Bacchus, later adopted by the Romans. There have been festivals dedicated to Dionysus, cult events centered around the proper way of drinking wine, and shared how wine could help ease suffering and bring joy.
Oinos – a Drink of ‘Power and Sophistication’
From nearly the beginning of time, wine has been considered a drink of power and sophistication. Arguably, its symbolic significance has remained, starting with the ancient Greeks who considered wine a celebration of prosperity, hedonism, and sensuality – even elitism and cultural sophistication.
This stems from how wine, ‘oinos’ in Greek, came to be known as such. According to mythology, there was a goat among the king’s heard who would disappear and return drunk on a regular basis. The shepherd, Staphylos, decided to follow him one day, and found that the goat found grapes growing in a vineyard and would eat them.
King Oineas of Aetolia extracted wine from the grapes (the grapes were named for the shepherd who discovered them – ‘staphilia’ in Greek) and as such the wine was called ‘Oinos’ honoring the king who first made wine, a craft taught to him by Dionysus, the god of wine.
Spiritual, And Good for You Too!
Since ancient Greek times wine always held an important religious meaning and connection to the gods. The ancients drank up to two glasses of red wine a day, but they consumed wine differently than we do today. The style of wine in ancient times was most commonly sweet and aromatic, flavored with herbs and flowers, though there were drier wines as well.
Wine was almost always diluted with water, which was a mark of civilized behavior—most ancients believed only barbarians drank akratos (unmixed wine).
However, its potential medicinal use was intriguing to the ancient Greeks as well. Theophrastus and Hippocrates mentioned the healthful importance of wine in their writings, and suggested it for treatments with olive oil and saps, as the cure for many health problems, from menstrual cramps to depression.
Wine was used as a panacea, functioning as an antiseptic, a cure for fevers, an analgesic, a diuretic, a tonic, and as a digestive aid. And while the ancient Greeks revered wine and drank it daily, they also understood the downsides to excessive wine consumption, alluding in ancient literature to hangovers or even death.
More recent medical research has only reinforced what the ancient Greeks knew all along: wine, in moderation, is good for you. Some research suggests that moderate red wine consumption can increase the expression of longevity-related genes thanks to the antioxidant, Resveratrol.
Greece, The Perfect Climate for Growing Grapes
I may be partial to the wines of my homeland, but Greece does, in fact, have the perfect climate for growing outstanding grapes – the fruit of the vine that makes the wine.
With its long, dry summers, copious sunshine, and the impressive mix of water, dry lands, and highlands, the Mediterranean climate of Greece creates the ideal circumstances for the growth of local vines, and thereby production of incredible wines.
Once Upon a Wine
Believe it or not, wine was part of my life from a very young age. We made our own wine at home from our family’s vineyard, where I loved to wander and pick grapes, often sucking the insides right out of the skin. During the harvest, our donkey, Mendis, would carry large bundles of grapes home on his back.
Winemaking was a joyous affair in our village, and everyone helped. The strongest men in our village would come to our house and help us pour the bundles of grapes into a large wooden wine vat the size of three men—every house had its own wine vat to crush grapes. I would climb into the vat on the ladder with my friends and siblings, and we would all stomp on the grapes.
This was one of our favorite forms of exercise, jumping up and down on the sweet grapes, and I remember feeling drunk with joy just from their scent. I loved the stains the grapes would leave on our feet, a reddish-purple badge of honor I wore with pride. I tried to make the stains last as long as it took for the wine to ferment, or about one month.
My grandmother always said wine was full of antioxidants, and good for all kinds of ailments, including indigestion and poor circulation. My grandfather gave us bread dipped in wine and unfermented grape juice for breakfast before school, a simple meal that gave us strength for the rest of the day. During the colder months, we would toast our bread in the fireplace and then dip it in the wine.
So… Which Islands Have the Best Wines?
The Aegean Islands are famous for their viticulture. The vineyards are often found on steep terraces cut into the sides of mountains. These terraces, known as pezoules, help to reduce erosion in the soil and retain what little water the vines receive.
The soil on these terraces has low vigor and reduces the leafy growth of the vines, which helps concentrate their energy into the production of high-quality grapes. Some of the Greek islands best known for their wines include the following:
- Samos is probably the best-known island for making wine, in particular their P.D.O. (protected designation of origin) sweet, fortified wines.
- Crete has a winemaking tradition that dates back 4,000 years to the Minoan period. Of note, one of the earliest known wine presses was discovered in Palekastro in Crete, and has been traced back to the Mycenaean period (1600–1100 BC). Crete is best known for their light, pale reds, thanks to the island’s incredible microclimate.
- Paros is known, as with other islands, for wines with an incredibly distinct flavor reflecting the island’s terroir and unique growing conditions. The P.D.O. Paros Red is characterized by its rich, fruity flavors and balanced acidity, while the P.D.O. Paros White offers fresh, crisp, and aromatic qualities.
- Santorini is known for its dry white wines – Assyrtiko is probably one of the most popular, and some say was responsible for bringing the world’s attention to Greek wine again. Fresh and crisp, it has a distinctive citrus flavor profile with a wonderful aroma of fruit, and intense minerality.
A Salute to Tradition
I’m often asked what wines do Greeks traditionally drink around the holidays? And the answer is, it depends on what criteria you’re using.
As a nod to tradition, in the 1960’s Retsina became the national beverage, associated worldwide with Greece, and Greek wine. Retsina is a Greek white (or rosé) resinated wine, which has been made for over 2,000 years.
While there are so many great holiday wines from which to choose, I have to admit that lately, since discovering it, I am partial to Aphrodise, a beautiful sparkling rosé.
It is described as having a robust structure, high acidity, powerful tannins and long aftertaste, making it a great match when served with a variety of dishes including lamb and beef, especially when roasted or cooked in red sauce and dried fruits.
I have many guests at Loi Estiatorio refer to Aphrodise as “delightfully refreshing, better than champagne.” Usually, I don’t drink champagne, but Aphrodise, I LOVE! And it’s absolutely true – this particular sparkling wine beautifully highlights the notable character of Greece’s well-known Xinomavro grape.
Xinomavro is a red grape variety that is indigenous to Greece, often referred to as the forefather of Cabernet Sauvignon.
Its name is a combination of two Greek words: xino meaning “sour,” and mavro meaning “black.” And while the grapes are used to make some great dry red wines, they are also frequently used for rosé and sparkling wines thanks to their innate complexity.
And Don’t Forget the Toast
The ritual of raising a glass to honor a deity has ancient origins. In Homer’s Iliad, the Gods are laying about with Zeus in assembly, drinking nectar from golden cups continually refilled by the goddess, Hebe (pronounced ‘Evie’ in Greek), the cupbearer to the Gods, and proposing toasts.
For mortals, it was wine that was often used to fete the Gods within a highly ritualized event called the symposion–a word that comes from the Greek word sympinein (“to drink together”).
Today, toasting continues to the gods, your family, your friends, (whatever is your preference) and the most common expression in Greek often used is, ‘Yia Mas’. It is the go-to sentiment you will hear when toasting, or celebrating with a glass of wine or other spirits.
Partners in Wine
Food is the centerpiece of every Greek holiday celebration, along with family traditions, and the company of your family and friends. I have delicious childhood memories of stifado, a rabbit stewed with whole onions, shallots, tomatoes, cinnamon, cloves, and red wine, and moscharaki kokkinisto, a beef or veal stew with red wine, onions, and tomato.
These are centuries old dishes that are filling and incredibly popular during the Greek holiday season, pairing beautifully with a good red wine on the dry side.
Great Minds Drink Alike
Wine is an object near to my heart—and good for it! I believe strongly in its magical powers, not just for my health, but also for its ability to bring people together, to transform ingredients, and to enhance life.
Regardless of what wines you choose to celebrate with this season, what’s most important is celebrating with friends and family, with great food, and great wine – for me, this year, I’m toasting to a fantastic end to 2024, and new beginning in 2025 with Aphrodise.
All photo credits are Chef Loi except wine photo by Aphrodise
