On a recent episode of my PBS series, The Life of Loi: Mediterranean Secrets, we traveled to the island of Tinos, an island that I like to call ‘the secret soul of Greece’. A short boat ride from Mykonos, Tinos has a cuisine all its own.
It was there that I met up with an old friend, Chef Vassilis Plakias, to prepare a hearty Artichoke Pie. Known as agginaropita, this wonderful little pie is made, of course, with artichokes, along with eggs, cheese, onions, herbs, and olive oil, which is layered into a flaky crust of phyllo dough.
It is because I am still savoring the memory of this delicious pie, I have decided this month, to embrace the often misunderstood artichoke.
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A Vegetable with an Ancient History
The artichoke is a domesticated variety of the wild cardoon (Cynara cardunculus), a plant native to the Mediterranean. Varieties of artichokes were first cultivated and domesticated in Sicily in the beginning of the classical period of ancient Greece.
Called carciofi, they are one of the world’s oldest cultivated vegetables—which are technically considered a type of “thistle”. In Rome, one dish, carciofi alla giudìa (deep-fried “Jewish style” artichokes) was created as a symbol of the diverse and complex Jewish-Roman history.
In Greece, artichokes have their own ties to ancient history and a unique history with the gods. According to mythology, when Zeus spotted Cynara, a beautiful young mortal on the island of Kinaros in the Aegean Sea, he seduced her and transformed her into a goddess so she could live close to him on Mount Olympus.
Though an enviable position to be in, Cynara grew homesick, and snuck back into the mortal world to visit her mother. Upon her return, Zeus discovered her deception, he banished her, sent her back to Earth, and turned her into an artichoke.
Not Really a Global Vegetable
While Artichokes are cultivated on many different continents, the highest production is concentrated in Mediterranean countries including Italy, Spain, and Egypt, all of which have the kind of rich, dry, fertile soil these thorny little gems need to thrive.
Artichokes also have strong roots, thousands of miles away, in California, where, in its Mediterranean–like climate, almost 100% of the artichokes grown in the United States, and nearly two-thirds of the world’s, come from California.
Indeed, one California town, Castroville, located in Monterey County, has been dubbed the “Artichoke Capital of the World.”
Prized Thorny Jewels
Artichokes are among the most expensive vegetables on the market, and with good reason: there are high production costs associated with growing them.
Artichoke heads are harvested by hand, and since you also need to wait for them to ripen, this usually requires care and cultivation over a span of several weeks. To be precise, it’s been estimated to take between 85 to 100 days, with the center bud maturing first, followed by the side buds.
Health Benefits
In ancient times, though artichoke consumption was geared towards the elite, there was recognition of certain health benefits it provided. Of course, the ancients knew what they were talking about, as artichokes do, in fact, have many health benefits. They are a great source of vitamin C and other minerals, high fiber, and full of antioxidants.
They have also been shown to potentially lower bad cholesterol, may reduce blood pressure and inflammation, and may protect the liver from damage and help with detoxification
They also have the potential to help with overall digestive health and may aid in lowering blood sugar. As always, before adding anything to your diet, it’s important to ask your doctor.
All Shapes and Sizes
Artichokes come in a variety of colors, shapes and sizes. Among the most popular are: globe; elongated/tapered, and baby artichokes, each of which has its own unique flavor:
- Globe Artichokes have a lightly nutty, tangy, and grassy flavor, often described as mild with a hint of bitterness, and are known for their unique characteristic of making other foods taste sweeter due to a compound called cynarin, which inhibits the tongue’s ability to detect sweetness. The most tender and flavorful part is the artichoke heart, which can taste somewhat like asparagus when cooked.
- Elongated or Tapered Artichokes include spiny artichoke and Violetto, which is an Italian heirloom artichoke known for its tenderness, and mild, nutty flavor. They are also described as having a slightly sweet taste and a herbaceous aftertaste. The preparation and cooking are the same as that used for globe artichokes.
- Baby Artichokes have a delicate, nutty flavor with a bit of bitterness. They are crunchy and chewy when raw, and when cooked, develop flavors frequently described as toasted nuts, caramel, and dry grass.
I am also frequently asked what is the difference between green and purple artichokes – do they just look different, or do they taste different?
Quite simply, green artichokes are more commonly used, and have a milder, slightly sweeter flavor. Purple artichokes are usually smaller with a slightly richer, nuttier flavor.
Thorny on the Outside, Delicious on the Inside
Many people are intimidated by the thought of cooking with, and even eating artichokes. Maybe it’s the prickly tips of the leaves that are off-putting. But, based on personal experience, I have to say that once you dig in past their deceptive surface, they are utterly delicious, which is why they’ve found their way into a number of mouth-watering dishes.
You can use all of the various parts of the artichoke– the flesh, leaves and skin are all edible. You do, however want, to discard the ‘center choke,’ except when cooking with baby artichokes.
Artichokes, the “Greek Way”
One of my favorite ways of celebrating artichokes in the spring, is by using a recipe that was first introduced by a popular 20th century Greek chef, Nicholas Tselementes.
It is called Aginares a la Polita (artichokes of the city). Nicholas took a traditional artichoke recipe that originated in Constantinople and then gave it his own personal twist.
It is a simple to make, one pot recipe, that can be made year-round using fresh or frozen artichokes, but I do love making it fresh in the springtime.
The centerpiece are artichoke hearts, sauteed lightly in olive oil to bring out the flavor, and joined by a flavorful combination of diced potatoes, peas, diced carrots, scallions, garlic, onion, more olive oil, and lemon to add brightness.
Then add a little vegetable stock and rice (if you like) to bring it all together, and finish with more lemon and dill to bring that grassy, bright, spring flavor to the forefront.
Now, if this recipe feels a tad too ambitious, by all means, keep it simple. You can boil, grill, braise, stuff and bake artichokes, but they are also quite tasty when simply steamed and dressed with lemon and olive oil.
Trim the thorns from the tips of the leaves; you can separate the leaves or steam the artichoke whole by placing them in a steamer pot with water, drizzle with olive oil and some of your favorite herbs, cover and forget them.
About 45 minutes later the leaves should be nice and tender, and you can then drizzle them again with a little olive oil, and enjoy by dipping in a luscious lemon-olive oil emulsion.
Whatever your preference, try them, you’ll like them – artichokes are the perfect way to usher in the spring!
All photo credits are Chef Loi
