Article contributed by Michael-Ann Rowe
If there was one gastronomic experience missed during the pandemic, it was the ‘experience’ of oysters!
The idea of pulling up to a local oyster bar and being served a frosty tray of glistening oysters on the half-shell was a dream! But did it need to be? No. While the pandemic was a shock to the food service supply chain, it drove oyster farmers into a gear they never knew they had, and ramped up everything from processes, packaging, education, and shipping, to the way we eat and serve an oyster now!
Ironically and similarly to the characteristic of an oyster, North American oyster farmers absorbed the waves of the pandemic and ultimately created a widespread of calm and new discoveries amongst oyster lovers everywhere. Let’s talk about my favorite Oyster Trends!
Education:
Virtual oyster classes have taken-off thanks to the lock-down. Oyster newbies and long-time oyster lovers have learned to shuck for themselves, learned how to buy and store oysters, and the biggest bank for restaurateurs, is they are learning the proper way to eat an oyster- no more slurping!
World shucking champion, culinary educator and Author of, ‘The Oyster Companion’, Patrick McMurray (AKA, Shucker Paddy), got a mention in the New York Times for his Prince Edward Island Oyster Masterclass. He recommends “that you chew your oyster a little bit, two bites and aerate to allow the flavors to cross the palate and develop fully”. And always ‘naked first’, before drowning a freshly harvested oyster in hot sauce! After many oyster 101 presentations, I can attest that this approach is a game-changer. In fact, it can convert those who ‘think’ they don’t like oysters, to a newfound love for bivalves. Slurping is out, savoring is in!
Shucker Paddy also includes a tasting wheel that goes deep into oyster notes, much like we describe wine. Instead of talking ‘terroir’, we are savoring the word, ‘Merroir’. Imagine your waitstaff describing oyster tasting notes paired with a backstory as you would describe a glass of wine; where is it from, what grows around it, how long did it take to grow? After all, isn’t that what consumers want now? Education is all part of the experience and if there is any doubt about oysters, I bestow upon you to try this method in service or at the retail counter and the proof will show up on your bottom line.
The trend has no sign of stopping as noted by Oyster Sommelier and educator, Julie Qiu, “I’ve continued to offer my signature oyster appreciation and pairing classes as public and private virtual events. I have been pleasantly surprised by how well they are received and am encouraged by the positive consumer feedback—many have attended multiple events!”
Adding to this oyster education, is how healthy oysters are for our immune system. This messaging is moving on social media more than ever as consumers are paying attention to better food choices in this ‘new normal’. Oyster education is a level up for the industry.
Oyster Pairings:
Oyster pairings have no limits!
It’s now Merroir meets Terroir, and gourmands are having the time of their life.
I was a guest educator for a Canadian oyster tasting at Regarding Oysters, lead by Georgette Moger-Petraske, a cocktail and spirits travel journalist and author of the best-selling drinks memoir, Sasha Petraske Regarding Cocktails (Phaidon). She hosts the weekly salon in her Manhattan brownstone teaching cocktail making, oyster shucking and spirit pairings. It’s where I tasted my first oyster luge; a rather sophisticated way to chase an oyster with a perfect single malt. It won’t be my last.
Julie Qiu’s recent virtual workshop involved an orange wine pairing and often times she presents a sake pairing event – one of my favorites with oysters.
If you follow the rule for tasting an oyster ‘naked first’, your sensibility for pairing oysters raises two-fold!
When it comes to a gastronomy, Chefs are experimenting. Hot sauces are on the back burner and creativity has no boundaries.
Poaching, baking and smoking, oyster ceviche, oyster tartar, and oyster charcuterie!
Oyster Catering
Hire an oyster caterer!
Oyster catering has served well for private functions and parties. ‘Bubble’ parties became a thing during COVID and hiring an oyster shucker is the life of the party!
With restrictions lifting oyster caterers are being sought after. Empire Oyster has been making rounds up and down the eastern seaboard with their new oyster-mobile. And Red Oyster is at your service to liven up your party: “Welcome to Red Oyster, the inventors of the roving mobile oyster shucker, and home of Oystertainment®!”
As Julie Qiu put it, “Oyster catering and mobile raw bars have really taken off in all parts of the country, and that’s where I think most of the growth with in-person education has taken place over the last two years.”
Direct to consumers:
At the beginning of COVID oyster producers were at a loss with restaurants closed to dining in. The retail seafood counter was hopeful and seafood restaurants found a way to sell oysters to-go!
The knee-jerk reaction from oyster growers all over North America was to ship oysters direct to the consumer to save their business. Social media blew up with where to buy oysters. Oyster kits were quickly put to use and ready for the virtual oyster class.
Maine Oyster Company invented an online ordering system where you could pick up or shipped to your door. The Canadian oyster farmers showed off their boutique oyster boxes; easy to carry and collector’s item too.
As per my conversation with oyster farmer, James Power of Raspberry Point Oyster company, “On the production side, there is a lasting effect with the retail sized packaging. There was a move to these smaller packages during 2020/2021 when restaurants were closed. They have held their own even after the restaurants opened.
One thing we are seeing more of is the inclusion of oysters in culinary boxes for home delivery. The home delivery really took a jump during the last two years and many oyster companies started on this trend. You see lots of companies making home boxes with various themes including an oyster party box.
Women Shuckers:
Lady shuckers are sharpening their knives! During the Canadian oyster festival at Docks Oyster Bar, NYC, I hired two shuckers, Libby Davis from Phippsburg (@ladyshuckers) and Beth Maco (@thisgirlshucks) from Connecticut. They also competed in the shucking competition. It changes the usual male-dominated scene and makes for great conversations. Maine has a network of women farmers who also love to shuck. If you attend the Prince Edward Island Shellfish festival, there is no lack of women competitors.
Looking at the big picture of oyster trends the industry looks strong with much room to grow.
We do need to shed more light on climate change and how it will affect this uprise and newfound love for oysters, but more so the ecological effect.
If you’re in the business of serving oysters and offer a picture-perfect oyster menu, my advice is to invest in one or two good oyster shuckers. Communicate with front and back of house staff about the origin of the oysters.
I can only assume that oyster trends have contributed to the rise in seafood consumption, and we can thank the oyster industry for reacting in such a big way, and to the consumers who are going for it. Listening and learning, and savoring their new word, Merroir.
Slurping is out, savoring is in!
Michael-Ann Rowe is a Canadian and US seafood ambassador and consultant. She is an Emmy Award-winner for a food & travel documentary series, Off the Beaten Palate.
Michael-Ann is the creator of the Canadian Oyster Festival, NYC, and Lobster Masterclasses and currently working on a lobster book with lobster scientist, Dr. Bob Bayer from Maine. Michael-Ann is a member of WCR (women Chefs and Restaurateurs), Les Dames NY, and the Lobster Council of Canada. Follow her on Instagram @michaelannrowe
