Olives: The Heart Of Greek Cuisine

Greek Olives
Greek Olives
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Ancient Olive Tree of Vouves
The Ancient Olive Tree of Vouves

‘The Olive Tree of Vouves,’ the oldest living olive tree in the world, is still planted firmly in the ground on the island of Crete, in the village of Ano Vouves. Estimated to be anywhere from 2000-4000 years old, it’s still producing olives today!

Olives are an intrinsic part of the DNA of Greece, part of our heart and soul, so let’s dive into why we love these delightful little fruits so much.

An Ancient History

Throughout time the olive tree has served as a source of inspiration. In Ancient Greece the olive branch also took on an important meaning.

Used in the form of a wreath, it crowned the victorious who emerged from bloody battles. It was also used to anoint noble heads on highly celebrated occasions.  

According to ancient Greek mythology, the olive tree has long been a symbol of peace and prosperity. The myth is tied to the founding of Athens, Greece, and a battle between Athena (Goddess of Wisdom) and Poseidon (God of the Sea), both of whom wanted to claim Athens as their own (which was without a patron deity at the time).  

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Zeus, King of Gods, suggested a contest between the two to see who would claim the city, so they each offered a gift to the citizens. Poseidon struck his trident in the ground, creating a spring of salty sea water which was of little use to Athenians. Athena, on the other hand, planted an olive tree on top of the Acropolis, providing the people of Athens with food, oil and wood. They, in turn, felt her gift was most valuable and beneficial, and from that point forward Athena became the patron deity of the city, and the city henceforth was known as Athens. 

Fruit of the Vine: A Staple of Greek Cuisine

Today, Greece is recognized as one of the top producer of olives in the world. In fact, there are an estimated 120-170 million olive trees spread throughout the country – on the low end, that’s about 12 olive trees per person! 

As a child, growing up in Thermo, a small village in Greece, we always had a handful of olives to sustain us throughout the day. They were usually eaten together with a hunk of bread, or rusks (a dry, hard, twice-baked bread), along with a piece of Feta cheese. Olives have always been a staple of Greek cuisine, and occupy a permanent place on most Greek dining tables. 

Greek Olive Tapenade
Greek Olive Tapenade

One of my great memories from childhood was preserving olives with my family. My Papou (grandfather in Greek) taught me how to do that. He gave me a special stone used to crack the olives. He would tell me repeatedly just smash the olives, it’s a great way to release all of your frustration. He said it was better to take it out on the olives, rather than the people you love.

Once all the olives were cracked, we submerged them in a vat of clean water, and changed that water every two days, until the olives were no longer bitter.  The we changed the water one more time, and added vinegar and salt in order to brine and preserve them. Sometimes, we’d add lemon and other citrus and herbs to imbue them with different flavors, but our favorites were always the classic.

Green, Purple, or Black – What’s The Difference?

For me, as long as I have olives on my table, I am happy. I don’t care if they are black or green. Green olives are green because they are harvested early, and purple and black olives are harvested later, when they have ripened on the tree. 

While there are more than 32 native varieties of olives in Greece, there are some standouts that top the list in terms of popularity:

  1. Kalamata – A popular variety that is dark purple to almost black in color, with a wrinkled skin and an almond-like shape. They have a fruity, salty flavor and are often preserved in red wine vinegar or red wine.
  2. Koroneiki – A green olive variety that produces a rich green oil with a tropical hint and a peppery aftertaste. The trees are usually small and produce small olives with an incredibly high oil yield.
  3. Agriniou – A lesser known but thoroughly loved variety of light green olives that come in all shapes and sizes, and are available in green and black form.  They offer a unique flavor from the mild climate of central Greece, with a firm yet crunchy texture and unforgettable taste.
  4. Amfissa – A variety of olive that is primarily cultivated in the region of Amfissa, Greece. They have a rich, fruity flavor and meaty texture.
  5. Throuba – Coming from the island of Thassos, these small back olives are often called the ‘date olive,’ due to their prune-like appearance.  Since they ripen on their own, Throumba are the only olives that can be eaten directly from the tree, and are meaty with a strong olive taste and aroma.

Olives Are Not Only Delicious, But They’re Good For You!

Though olives are a petite fruit, the wide variety of health benefits they offer is quite mighty!

  • Olives are rich in monounsaturated fats – aka healthy fats. They are also a good source of oleic acid, which is known to promote heart health by reducing inflammation (beneficial for conditions like arthritis), and can also help lower your bad cholesterol levels.
  • Olives also have antioxidant properties which includes vitamin E and polyphenols (micronutrients naturally occurring in plants), which can help protect your cells from oxidative stress, and reduce the risk of chronic diseases, as well as cancer.
  • According to the National Institutes of Health, polyphenols in olives may improve your bone health by increasing bone density, reducing the risk of osteoporosis. Olives, as a good source of fiber, also aids digestion, promoting a healthy gut. The healthy fats and fiber in olives also leads to better blood sugar control, beneficial for those with diabetes.
Mediterranean Chicken Stew
Mediterranean Chicken Stew

Cooking with Olives: Let Me Count the Ways…

There are an infinite number of ways olives can be added to an endless variety of dishes. And when you do cook with olives, you always want to keep in mind that there are many different varieties, each of which has a very different textures and flavor profile. Some are briny, some fruity, and some spicy.

Try them in salads. Sliced, diced or whole (pitted), olives can make a delicious addition to a fresh green, pasta or grain salad.  There is no traditional Horiatiki Salata (traditional Greek village salad) without Kalamata olives, made with tomatoes, cucumbers, red onion, green peppers, and feta cheese. 

I want to share a secret for an amazing dressing for this salad (which is great for other salads as well): combine olive oil, chopped pitted olives, three tablespoons of olive brine, one tablespoon of red wine vinegar, along with a handful of fresh herbs, and a teaspoon of dry oregano. This can be done by hand, in a blender, or in a resealable container that you shake vigorously.  The result is a tart, briny, unctuous salad dressing that ties all the ingredients together in perfect harmony.  

They are great as a tapenade: A lot of people feel intimidated by the notion of making a tapenade, but is it surprisingly simple, and one the favorites among my customers at Loi Estiatorio in New York City. They love having it served up with crudites, or spread on some perfectly toasted pita bread. It’s even great as a condiment for fish, chicken, or meat. This bright, tasty blend of olives, capers, anchovies, lemon, garlic and herbs can be prepared in a matter of minutes, and is sure to make any dish pop.

(On my PBS series, The Life of Loi, in episode 108, The Land of Liquid Gold, there’s an easy recipe to make an amazing tapenade! You can watch it on PBS Passport, Apple TV, Amazon Prime, Roku, and Plex TV).

Olives also can provide a briny flavor, depth and complexity to sauces used for braises or stews made with chicken or lamb. I frequently make one of my childhood favorites- a simple Mediterranean-style chicken stew that’s gently simmered with olives, tomatoes, chicken stock or water, and a variety of aromatics. Olives also make a great addition to a variety of pasta dishes. I like to incorporate them into a simple Mediterranean pasta made with fresh diced tomatoes, feta, and herbs.

Incorporated into a variety of baked dishes, olives make a delicious addition to a plethora of baked goods including focaccia or a nice, savory muffin. They can also help bring out the flavor when added to roasted vegetables. I love the very easy combination of potatoes, carrots, red onions, green and/or red bell peppers, and sliced or whole olives. Simply drizzle the vegetables with olive oil right before baking, and season evenly with some dried or fresh herbs.  

Remember, whenever you are cooking with olives, don’t forget to consider the relative saltiness of these little gems when combined with other ingredients…taste before seasoning – you may not need extra salt.

It is always worth trying a wonderful yet simple treat, stuffed olives. You can add almost anything to them, but they are especially tasty with cheese, almonds, garlic cloves, or pimentos, Any and all of the above can make for a great appetizer or served up as part of a charcuterie or grazing board. 

Keep Calm and Olive On

Olives, and the trees they come from have been a part of Greek DNA for thousands of years.  We love the shade from the trees, the gorgeous wood it provides, the delectable fruits that it grows, and the incredible oil that comes from the fruit.  There is nothing that goes to waste, and nothing left unappreciated.  The next time you see an olive, think about the magic that one tree has provided for millenia – then pop it in your mouth, enjoy the burst of briny goodness, and live on knowing you’ve done something good for the day.

All food dish photo credits are Chef Loi

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Maria Loi
Chef Maria Loi is an entrepreneur, Greek food ambassador and healthy lifestyle guru. The author of more than 36 cookbooks, she is also the host of the award winning PBS series, The Life of Loi: Mediterranean Secrets, now airing its second season on PBS stations nationwide. Both seasons 1 & 2 are available to stream on PBS Passport, Amazon Prime Video, Apple TV, Amazon Freevee, Roku, and Plex TV. The Life of Loi aims to build an inspirational, educational movement around the Mediterranean diet and lifestyle. Loi Food Products, her specialty brand built on traditional ingredients from Greece, includes refrigerated dips, savory pies, pastas, botanical herbs, and olive oil sold on QVC, at Whole Foods Markets, Fresh Direct, and at other retailers. Chef Loi is also the namesake of the acclaimed restaurant, Loi Estiatorio, in the heart of Midtown Manhattan. Connect with her on LinkedIn, follow her on Instagram and Facebook, and learn more about her food philosophy at Loi Estiatorio.
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