Chef Hajime Sato is the culinary mastermind behind Sozai in Clawson, Michigan, and the recent recipient of the prestigious James Beard Award for Best Chef: Great Lakes.
Chef Sato’s journey is one of passion, resilience, and a deep commitment to sustainability—a journey that has not only earned him national recognition but has also put Michigan’s culinary scene in the spotlight.
Total Food Service is delighted to present an exclusive interview with Chef Hajime Sato, as his story is extraordinary for many reasons. Born and raised in Tokyo, Sato honed his craft in Japan before making a name for himself in Seattle, where he ran the pioneering sustainable sushi restaurant, Mashiko.
In 2019, he relocated to metro Detroit with his wife, Elizabeth, who was undergoing cancer treatment, and it was here that he embarked on a new chapter, opening Sozai in 2021 amidst the challenges of the pandemic.
Despite these hurdles, Sozai quickly became a beloved destination for sushi lovers, earning accolades such as the Eater Award for Best New Suburban Restaurant and a spot on The Detroit News’ best new restaurants.
Hajime Sato’s win at the James Beard Awards is historic, as it marks the first time a sushi restaurant has taken home the award in the Great Lakes region, and it’s the first time a Michigan chef has won in this category since 2003. But beyond the accolades, what truly sets Chef Sato apart is his unwavering dedication to ocean conservation and ethical sourcing.
At Sozai, you won’t find typical sushi rolls like the California or Philadelphia roll; instead, you’ll experience a menu that reflects Sato’s commitment to sustainability and his deep respect for the ingredients he uses.
What initially sparked your passion for cooking?
I came to the U.S. as an exchange student in Idaho and stayed. Cooking started as a temporary job when I was attending community college in Seattle, and somehow, I’m still doing it.
How did your parents influence your career and who you are today?
My parents did a good job raising me with strong values. Growing up in Japan, there’s always a sense of striving to be better. Even with recognition, I still have that mindset of never being good enough, always pushing to improve.
Your career really began to take off at the restaurant Mashiko in Seattle. Can you tell us about that experience?
That came after several stints at different restaurants. Eventually, in 1994, I opened my own restaurant, Mashiko, in Seattle.
Could you elaborate on the restaurants you worked at prior to Mashiko and the lessons you learned there?
I apprenticed under various chefs and worked at multiple restaurants before opening Mashiko. What I learned is extensive, and it’s difficult to sum up in a few words. Running a restaurant is not something you master and move on from—it’s an ongoing learning experience. Every single day presents new challenges and opportunities to learn and evolve.
What are some of the toughest challenges in running a restaurant?
Everything can be tough—people, products, consistency. My wife and I manage a small restaurant. We handle everything from bookkeeping and ordering supplies to cleaning toilets and preparing food. It’s a lot to juggle, especially when you’re the one making the food right in front of the customers. There’s no one else to depend on.
You moved from Seattle to Michigan. What prompted that decision, and how has it influenced your culinary style?
The move was primarily for medical reasons. Transitioning from Seattle to Michigan was challenging, especially in sourcing fresh fish and other ingredients like sake. Opening a restaurant during the tail end of COVID added to the difficulty due to supply and labor shortages. It wasn’t just the geographical shift that was hard, but the timing was far from ideal.
What makes Sozai the best sushi restaurant in Michigan?
At Sozai, we specialize in Omakase, which is essentially the chef’s choice. You sit down, I ask you a few questions, and then I prepare a meal tailored to you. My goal is to bring traditional Japanese cuisine to Detroit, focusing on quality and customer experience above all else.
How do you manage sourcing high-quality ingredients in a place like Michigan?
It’s challenging because I emphasize sustainable seafood. I can’t rely solely on distributors; I have to work with several and sometimes even get fish directly from fishermen. My approach requires a lot of effort and creativity in sourcing ingredients that meet my standards.
What is your perspective on the issue of overfishing?
Our oceans, much like our planet, are in poor shape. While my small restaurant alone can’t make a massive difference, I believe everyone has a role to play. The recognition from James Beard helps amplify my voice, and I hope it encourages others to take action.
Are you involved with any national organizations dedicated to sustainable seafood?
Yes, I work closely with Seafood Watch and NOAA. I believe everyone—from governments to consumers—should be involved in sustainability efforts. After all, we all live on this planet, and our actions impact the environment.
On your website, you mention “no California rolls.” Could you explain the reasoning behind that?
It’s simple—I don’t serve California rolls. If that’s what you’re looking for, my restaurant isn’t the place for you. My focus is on traditional Japanese cuisine, and while I respect innovation, I believe it should be rooted in a deep understanding of tradition.
How do you balance tradition and innovation in your cooking?
The concept of tradition itself is complex. What is considered traditional today might have been an innovation centuries ago. For example, tomatoes in Italian cuisine or noodles in Chinese cuisine evolved over time. My approach to sushi is more about maintaining the authenticity of what I grew up with in Japan, rather than simply combining trendy ingredients.
Innovation, to me, is about refining traditional techniques and applying them to local ingredients, rather than mixing things up for the sake of novelty.
Japan has a rich culinary heritage with regional variations. Have you brought influences from a specific region of Japan to your cooking?
I’m from northern Japan, so my cooking often reflects the flavors of that region. However, I also incorporate techniques and elements from other regions, such as Kyoto, which has a lighter culinary style that I admire. But overall, my cuisine is rooted in Washoku, which is traditional Japanese cooking.
Do you frequently travel back to Japan to stay updated on culinary trends?
I wish I could travel back more often, but running a restaurant doesn’t leave much time for that. I stay informed through magazines, books, and constant self-improvement.
Japanese cooking is more about a personal challenge—doing something better today than you did yesterday—than following trends.
I noticed you are a certified Sake advisor. Can you explain the importance of this certification?
Sake is to Japanese cuisine what wine is to French cuisine. As a chef, it’s crucial to understand what people are drinking with my food. It’s not just about serving a drink; it’s about enhancing the dining experience.
Is Sake served in a similar way to how wine is served in Western dining—pre-meal, during the meal, and post-meal?
Absolutely. Just like wine, there are different types of Sake for different occasions and dishes. The variety is vast, with differences in alcohol content, acidity, and regional characteristics.
Is there a specific region in Japan that produces your preferred sake?
It’s not about preference; it’s about appropriateness. Just as a knowledgeable sommelier wouldn’t declare one wine region superior to another, the same applies to Sake. Each region has its unique qualities that suit different occasions.
You mentioned the James Beard Foundation. What was your reaction to being recognized by such a prestigious organization?
The recognition was a surprise and an honor. It gave me a platform to speak about sustainability and work with organizations I hadn’t collaborated with before.
However, it’s a bit bittersweet because I’ve been doing the same work for years, but only now do people seem to notice because of the award. It’s humbling.
This is my second nomination, and it still feels surreal. The recognition gives a voice to small restaurants like mine, allowing us to advocate for issues like sustainability that matter deeply to me.
How has the James Beard recognition impacted your restaurant in terms of promotion and business?
A lot of new people like you calling! The restaurant was already busy before the recognition, and I haven’t increased capacity since.
I’m focused on maintaining a comfortable level where I can provide the best experience for my customers. If the James Beard Award brings more people in, that’s great, but it doesn’t change how I operate.
What does your staff look like, and how have you built a successful team?
Our restaurant requires a passion for what we do. It’s not a job you can approach mechanically; every day is different. If someone enjoys the meticulous work, like massaging an octopus for 45 minutes, they fit in well here. It’s about finding joy in the details.
What’s it like running a business in greater Detroit? Is it a business-friendly environment?
There’s bureaucracy, of course, but I think that’s the same everywhere. Sometimes it’s frustrating, but you push through it. We’re all human, after all.
Do you offer takeout or delivery services?
No, we don’t. Our focus is on the dining experience, which involves the personal preparation and presentation of each dish. That’s not something that translates well to takeout or delivery.
What advice would you give to aspiring chefs or future restaurant owners?
My approach is different from many chefs. I don’t see myself as an artist but as a craftsman. My goal is to improve incrementally every day—whether it’s cooking rice or cleaning the kitchen. It’s not about chasing awards or expanding. It’s about doing the best you can each day.
How do you feel about the trend of chefs expanding their brands to multiple locations?
It’s a common path, especially in the U.S., but it’s not for me. I’m content with my small restaurant. There’s value in maintaining a craft at a single location, even if it doesn’t lead to expansion or mass recognition.
What are your thoughts on craftsmanship, particularly in culinary tools, and how has that evolved?
Craftsmanship is crucial. For instance, there was a craftsman in Japan who made the best tweezers for boning fish. He retired, and no one took up his craft, so now that level of precision is lost.
This loss of traditional skills concerns me. In my kitchen, I focus on sharpening my knives better each day rather than investing in the latest gadgets.
What do you do outside of the kitchen? Have you picked up any hobbies or interests since moving to Michigan?
I do ceramics and create plates and bowls for the restaurant. I also dabble in painting.
What books or materials do you enjoy reading?
I recently read about the history of Sake rice, which might sound odd to some. But I find it fascinating. I’m always learning.
What’s next for you and your restaurant?
I don’t have grand plans for expansion or anything like that. My focus remains on improving my craft every day. I’m still heavily involved in every aspect of the restaurant, from ordering and preparing food to serving customers. It’s all about the product and the experience for me. Let’s start with getting ready for tonight’s shift.
All photos courtesy of Chef Hajime Sato and Sozai Restaurant unless labeled otherwise.
