The word “samba” conjures vibrant rhythms, lively beats, joyous celebrations, and the captivating spirit of Brazilian culture. In the world of cuisine, “samba” brings to mind the flavors and aromas that make Brazilian food as colorful and lively as the dance itself.
While pork-rich feijoada and flame-grilled churrasco often take center stage in Brazilian fare, the country’s culinary landscape is equally rich in delicious plant-based dishes that delight vegans, vegetarians, and omnivores alike.
These dishes reflect the same bold flavors, colors, and celebratory spirit—making them a unique offering for all types of diners.
To delve deeper into the festive and diverse world of Brazilian plant-based cuisine, I turned to Executive Chef and owner Ilson Goncalves of Samba Montclair.
Hailing from Blumenau, Brazil, Chef Ilson grew up helping his mother run a family-style restaurant—a foundational experience that shaped his culinary journey.
Here’s my interview with Chef Ilson to learn more about his journey to open Samba Montclair and his commitment to bringing plant-forward Brazilian flavors to life.
What made you decide to open Samba Montclair?
I’ve been in America for 20 years. When I arrived, I worked in a much-respected local restaurant. I needed a day off because I was applying for US citizenship.
It was my court date. The owner told me, “Take the day off, but you can never have another one.” I said, “I can’t promise that; what if there’s another court date? I care as much about this restaurant as if it were mine.” He looked at me and said, “You know what? It’s not yours, it’s mine. Go start your own.” I took off my apron, thanked him for giving me the experience, and quit. He called for two weeks, asking me to come back, but I refused. It took years, I saved $25k, and eventually bought a space.
What inspired you to call your restaurant Samba?
Samba brings communities in Brazil together, no matter your religion or the color of your skin. The music we play at Carnival is Samba. I wanted to reinforce that connection.
Considering that Brazilian cuisine is meat and seafood-centric, how do you please your plant-forward clientele at Samba Montclair? How do you make sure that you offer enough of a selection to entice them to patronize your restaurant?
Our menu is 50% vegan/vegetarian, but we have an array of meat, chicken and seafood options. At core, the Brazilian cuisine I grew up on is vegetarian: beans & rice, for example. But when my mom would add beef and pork, it became feijoada. Here at Samba, we meet every dietary need because we’re also 100% gluten-free.
For the festive holiday season, what are you serving to delight your vegans and vegetarian diners?
For Christmas in Brazil, we cook rice with coconut milk and raisins. It’s a special dish for a special time of year. We’ll serve that the week between Christmas and New Year’s.
In Brazil, eating seven grapes at New Year’s Eve is a tradition that symbolizes good luck, prosperity and abundance for the coming year. You cannot eat 6, you cannot eat 8, only 7! We dip them in chocolate or caramel, anything sweet for dessert.
What training did you receive to elevate your plant-based cooking skills?
I went to the Natural Gourmet Institute in NYC for culinary training, six years after I opened the restaurant. I wanted to expand my culinary skills. 97% of the food we prepared was vegan.
With Brazil being home to the Amazon rainforest, there’s a growing awareness of sustainability and environmental concerns, pushing more people toward plant-based diets. How do you see yourself and other Brazilian chefs playing a role in helping protect our environment?
My ingredients are straight from the farm, organic and full of vitamins and flavor. I drive to New Holland, PA to visit Amish farmers and I go from farm to farm to get my produce. It’s a 5-½ hour drive in total.
It’s actually cheaper for me to do that than shop at Restaurant Depot or a regular market. I also hit the Portuguese markets in the Ironbound section of Newark.
Brazilian chef Alex Antala of D.O.M. also inspires me. He’s a champion of sustainability and human rights; a rainforest activist who has elevated Brazilian cuisine globally.
More info about Executive Chef/Owner Ilson Goncalves, Samba Montclair at their website. Chef Ilson is the author of The Samba Montclair Gluten-Free Cookbook (A Life in Print, 2023), available at his restaurant and Watchung Booksellers, Montclair, NJ.
